NZ's first women's trade union

Women working at the New Zealand Clothing Factory in Dunedin which began in 1873

The interior of a clothing factory with women operating irons at the middle table, 1909

Clothing factory with women workers at machines, c.1910

The Employment of Females Act of 1873 made it illegal to employ women in factories for more than 8 hours in any one day

However, this was not enforced in factories

The Employment of Females and Others Act 1881 placed further restriction on hours of work & provided for overtime rates

Although inspectors were appointed, the Act was not fully enforced to ensure overtime was paid at penal rates

The plight of tailoresses, including single woman apprentices, became known as the "sweating system"

As well as working in factories, women took work home & were paid by the number of items ("piecework") rather than hours

Between 1881-1890, the economic depression was accompanied by a steady worsening in conditions of employment

Image: Women engaged in the sweating system appearing in Court for stealing few articles of clothing (1891)

Many young single women were employed as apprentices to learn the clothing trade & received low wages

Image: Annie Heron, aged about 15, wearing the dress she made to graduate as a tailoress, 1885

During 1888 & 1889, the "sweating system" was highlighted in sermons & public lectures by Rev Rutherford Waddell

Waddell was a Presbyterian minister & former draper's apprentice who'd immigrated with his wife from Ireland in 1877

In Nov 1888, the Presbyterian Synod in Dunedin agreed ministers & officer-bearers would discourage "sweating system"

Rev Waddell's address included that children were also being discouraged from going to school to sew clothing at home

On 21 Feb 1889, a public meeting in Dunedin agreed to Rev Waddell's motion to form a committee to discuss next steps

The Committee began campaigning for the fairer treatment of workers and the regular inspection of their workplaces

When employers in Dunedin refused to negotiate, the Committee formed the Dunedin Tailoresses' Union on 12 July 1889

1st president was Rev Waddell & secretary was John A. Millar of Seamen's Union. Male workers could join but few did.

In July 1889, media reported the situation of tailoresses in Auckland was under review by Trades and Labour Council

Cases reported included women on probation being underpaid & required to work long hours & would take work home

In Aug 1889, Tailoresses' Union threatened strike action when the Manufacturers' Association refused to increase wages

Consequently, local employers reduced hours & raised wages by c.2 percent, & in some cases as high as 40 per cent

In Oct 1889, media reported some firms had reacted negatively to the Union, & discharged members from the workplace

(Article in the Star (8 Oct 1889) comments on a male union member who was discharged)

On 26 Nov 1889, a meeting held in Wellington by tailoresses, machinists, & pressers decided to form a union like Dunedin

A representative from the Dunedin Union was also sent to Auckland to assist in the formation of an union

In 1890, public pressure led to the Govt setting up a Royal Commission to enquire into higher wages & working conditions

The Sweating Commission investigated the conditions in clothing & other factories, & those women doing piecework at home

Although the Commission found cases of exploitation, it didn't agree these were general enough to call "sweating system"

Findings showed the new rates were still not high enough for women to support themselves & many had to rely on parents

In Dec 1890, the Dunedin Tailoresses' Union held its first annual picnic at Purakanui which c.1000 attended

The Factories Act 1891 was passed following the Commission's findings & included inspection & reinforcement provisions

During the first 3 months, inspectors required improvements & alterations to 913 factories

In 1891, the Federated Tailoresses’ Union was formed & held its first conference in July in Christchurch

Attendees were from Dunedin, Christchurch, Wellington & Auckland unions. From 1891, membership was restricted to women.

1891: Harriet Morison (front left) became Union's 1st woman secretary until 1896 & 13 other women were on the Executive

Morison also campaigned for women's suffrage & the 1891 petition had 4000 Dunedin signatures including 2/3 working women

In Dec 1892, the Tailoresses' Union & other unions threatened strike action against sweated labour

(Political cartoon: "The Comet - another threatened strike", 3 Dec 1892)

In May 1895, the Dunedin Tailoresses' Union held a Scottish fair to raise funds

It intended to form a convalescent home & a benefit society

In Aug 1896, a fair was held in Auckland by the Tailoresses' Union

Aug 1896: Performers at the fair held in Auckland by the Tailoresses' Union

In 1898, a national award for factory tailoresses was achieved under arbitration

In 1900, the Union's ten year campaign for female factory inspectors was successful & the staffing was extended in 1909

The Dept of Labour's inspectors included two former Union secretaries - Harriet Morison & Selina Hale

1900: The laundry department at A Clark and Sons shirt factory, Grey Lynn, Auckland

On 6 Sept 1905, the Arbitration Court settled a dispute between the Dunedin Tailoresses' Union & clothing manufacturers

The Award to take effect from 1 Sept 1905 set out the rates of pay and working conditions

In 1905, Tailors and Tailoresses at D Luen & Co was established in Palmerston North that year

In 1910, an uniform national award was negotiated after Auckland joined the Federated Tailoresses' Union in 1909

Aug 1911: Clothing factory in Christchurch

c.1916: Women working in Hallenstein's clothing factory in Dunedin

1920: Sewing machine operators at a clothing factory in Christchurch

In 1921, New Zealand Federated Clothing Trade Employees Union succeeded the 1891 Federation Tailoresses' Union

In 1928, the headquarters was moved from Dunedin to Christchurch & unions in other areas began amalgamating with it

1928-30: Storefront of the New Zealand Hallenstein Brothers Clothing Factory shop

Display of shirts, ties, blouses and material

1928-30: Storefront of the New Zealand Hallenstein Brothers Clothing Factory shop

Display shows top hats & pattern clusters

In 1939, Dunedin Tailoresses' Union held its Golden Jubilee banquet

Over the years, the union membership had ranged between 350 and 1400

In 1945, Dunedin Tailoresses' Union voted to amalgamate with new Otago & Southland Clothing and Related Trades Union

Postal ballot showed 66% of 1068 votes returned wanted to join the 174 male tailors, cutters & pressers

In June 1945, Dunedin Tailoresses' Union closed & new union joined N.Z. Federated Clothing Trade Employees Union

Dunedin's achievements included higher wages, reduced hours, Dpt of Lab. female factory inspectors & legislative changes