Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

A DigitalNZ Story by Zokoroa

Guide Bella was renowned for her waiata and poi dances during the early 1900s in NZ and overseas, and received over 10,000 love letters!

Bella Papakura, Maggie Papakura, Guide, Tourism, Rotorua, Whakarewarewa, Maori music, Waiata, Poi, Performing arts, Songs, Dance. Jean Batten

The inspiration for this DigitalNZ story was this photograph of Jean Batten being greeted by Guide Bella after making the first direct solo flight from England to New Zealand in October 1936.  Who was Guide Bella and what experiences did she have as a Guide at Whakarewarewa?

Image: Moore & Thompson, fl 1936-1942 (Firm) : Photograph of Guide Bella, and Jean Batten, greeting each other with a hongi

Guide Bella and Jean Batten greeting each other with a hongi, c.1936-37

Jean visited her birthplace of Rotorua (born 1909) after making first direct solo flight from England to NZ in Oct 1936

Moore & Thompson, fl 1936-1942 (Firm) : Photograph of Guide Bella, and Jean Batten, greeting each other with a hongi

Alexander Turnbull Library

A search of resources on DigitalNZ reveals that Guide Bella Te Hoari Papakura (c1870-1950) of Te Arawa was one of the renowned Whakarewarewa guides. Bella became a household name, along with her sister Guide Maggie (Mākereti Papakura), Guide Sophia Hinerangi, Guide Bubbles (Dorothy Huhana Mihinui), and Guide Rangi (Rangitīaria Dennan) who married Maggie's son.  For background information, see NZ History: The Guides of Whakarewarewa, 1880s - ?  https://nzhistory.govt.nz/women-together/guides-whakarewarewa 

1. Guide bella welcomed royalty, Aviators, military,     Clergy, sportspeople, Entertainers and tourists

Image: Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

Guide Bella Te Hoari Papakura (c1870-1950) of Te Arawa was one of the renowned Whakarewarewa guides

Guide Bella wearing a kahu kiwi (kiwi feather cloak), earrings and a hei tiki at Whakarewarewa, 1905

Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Duchess of Cornwall and York during the 1901 royal visit

Duke & Duchess of Cornwall & York, 1901

After Maggie guided the Duke & Duchess around the sights, there was a poi dance of young Māori girls led by Bella

Duchess of Cornwall and York during the 1901 royal visit

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Paderewski, 1904

Polish pianist Ignace Jan Paderewski, 26 Sept 1904

He played the piano at Maggie's home & Bella dressed him as a rangatira & painted a tattoo on his face

Paderewski, 1904

Auckland Libraries

Guide Bella, 1904

Article gives a description of Guide Bella and the Ohinemutu and Whakarewarewa sights

TO ROTORUA AND BACK (Otago Witness, 20 April 1904)

National Library of New Zealand

In a newspaper article, Guide Bella was described as:  "Bella Papakura, sister of the notable Maggie, whom we were fortunate enough to have as our guide at Whakarewarewa... is a married woman, with the cares of a family upon her, and she comes to meet you in a red blouse, a short black skirt, shoes and stockings, and a coloured handkerchief round her head, altogether giving one the impression that she is a hard-working little woman. She is practical, polite, and thoroughly enjoys a joke. The middle of her story she may vary; never the beginning or the end. Invariably that is, "My charge, ladies and gentlemen, is 2s, if you please.

Source: To Rotorua and back, Otago Witness, Issue 2614, 20 April 1904, p.71

Image: Guides with naval officers

Austrian naval officers, 21 Oct 1905

Guides Sophia, Maggie, Bella and unknown guide with officers from Austrian torpedo-cruiser Panther

Guides with naval officers

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Image: Snapshot of the visitors at Whakarewarewa, with Bella the guide and Superintendent Turner, supervisor of the reserve

Melbourne cricket team, 17 Feb 1906

Melbourne cricket team at Whakarewarewa with Guide Bella and Superintendent Turner

Snapshot of the visitors at Whakarewarewa, with Bella the guide and Superintendent Turner, supervisor of the reserve

Auckland Libraries

Image: GREAT NATIVE DEMONSTRATION AT ROTORUA: THE PREMIER ABOUT TO UNVEIL THE MONUMENT TO THE LATE KEEPA TE RANGIPOAWHE AT WHAKAREWAREWA, MARCH 10, 1906

The Premier unveiled a monument to Te Keepa Rangipoawhe, Chief of Tūhourangi (1906)

GREAT NATIVE DEMONSTRATION AT ROTORUA: THE PREMIER ABOUT TO UNVEIL THE MONUMENT TO THE LATE KEEPA TE RANGIPOAWHE AT WHAKAREWAREWA, MARCH 10, 1906

Auckland Libraries

The ceremony at Whakarewarewa was followed by the "chanting of a dirge, led by the well-known Bella"

THE COLONIST. Published Daily���Morning. Nelson, Friday, Mar. 16, 1906. THE MAORIS. (Colonist, 16 March 1906)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: The Besses o' th' Barn bandsmen

The Besses o' th' Barn Bandsmen, 20 April 1907

English brass band visited Whakarewarewa during their tour to NZ

The Besses o' th' Barn bandsmen

Auckland Libraries

Image: Teresa Carreño (María Teresa Carreño García de Sena), 1907

Pianist Madame Teresa Carreno, 1907

Teresa Carreño (María Teresa Carreño García de Sena), 1907

Auckland Libraries

During the welcoming ceremony, which was held in the hall at Whakarewarewa, Madame Carreno also played the piano

MADAME CARRENO ENTERTAINED AT WHAKA. (Marlborough Express, 11 September 1907)

National Library of New Zealand

Cardinal Moran & his Catholic party, 5 March 1908

After the formal welcome at Ohinemutu, they were escorted around Whakarewarewa by Guides Bella and Maggie

CARDINAL MORAN AT ROTORUA (New Zealand Tablet, 05 March 1908)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Opening the new bath house at Rotorua. Sir Joseph Ward performing the ceremony

PM Sir Joseph Ward officially opened new Bath House, 13 Aug 1909

Opening the new bath house at Rotorua. Sir Joseph Ward performing the ceremony

Auckland Libraries

Admiral Sperry & American naval officers attended Bath House opening ceremony

Admiral Sperry was draped with garments by Maggie & Bella (Stafford, 1988, p. 24)

WELCOME TO ROTORUA. (Marlborough Express, 15 August 1908)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: AMaori poi dance of welcome to Admiral Sperry at Rotorua

Admiral Sperry welcomed by Bella and troupe with a poi dance

AMaori poi dance of welcome to Admiral Sperry at Rotorua

Auckland Libraries

Image: THE LATEST PORTRAIT OF MADAME MELBA. (New Zealand Free Lance, 10 April 1909)

Madame Melba visited Rotorua, May 1909

THE LATEST PORTRAIT OF MADAME MELBA. (New Zealand Free Lance, 10 April 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Madame Melba was entertained at a concert by Maggie, Bella & others, & given a guided tour at Rotorua

MELBA AT ROTORUA. (Evening Post, 25 May 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Mr Dean, Dorothy Dean & large group, Rotorua trip

Tourist party, c.1918

Guide Bella with Dean family touring group

Mr Dean, Dorothy Dean & large group, Rotorua trip

Kete Horowhenua

Image: The Prince of Wales at Rotorua: the great welcome by the Maoris

Prince of Wales, 1920

Montage of photos of the visit by the Prince of Wales to Whakarewarewa

The Prince of Wales at Rotorua: the great welcome by the Maoris

Auckland Libraries

Newspaper account of the Prince of Wales' reception and being guided through the thermal area

AMONGST THERAMAL WONDERS. (Poverty Bay Herald, 29 April 1920)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: The Prince of Wales at Whakarewarewa, Rotorua: His Royal Highness, accompanied by his guides, viewing the thermal wonders

Prince of Wales at Whakarewarewa with Guides Bella and Miriani, 1920

The Prince of Wales at Whakarewarewa, Rotorua: His Royal Highness, accompanied by his guides, viewing the thermal wonders

Auckland Libraries

Image: The Reception To Sir Charles Fergusson At Whakarewarewa

Governor-General Sir Charles Fergusson, 11 Feb 1926

The Reception To Sir Charles Fergusson At Whakarewarewa

Auckland Libraries

Image: Duke and Duchess of York during Maori welcome, Rotorua

Duke & Duchess of York, 1927

Duke and Duchess of York during Maori welcome, Rotorua

Alexander Turnbull Library

Imperial Highness Prince Takamatsu, 1928

His Imperial Highness Prince Takamatsu and the Commander and officers and men of the Japanese training squadron

MAORI WELCOME (Evening Post, 28 July 1928)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: McWilliam, Kingsford-Smith, Guide Bella, Ulun [?] and Lichfield at Whakarewarewa.

Guide Bella leading the tour for Charles Kingsford Smith, Sept 1928

Sir Charles visited Rotorua after 1st trans-Tasman flight from Richmond near Sydney arrived in Christchurch

McWilliam, Kingsford-Smith, Guide Bella, Ulun [?] and Lichfield at Whakarewarewa.

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Image: Sir Charles Kingsford Smith and Guide Bella

Sir Charles Kingsford Smith and Guide Bella at the carved gate to Whakarewarewa

Sir Charles Kingsford Smith and Guide Bella

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Image: Crew of the Southern Cross, at the hot pools with guide, Bella, Rotorua, New Zealand, September 1928 [2]

Southern Cross crew, Sept 1928

Crew of the Southern Cross with Guide Bella

Crew of the Southern Cross, at the hot pools with guide, Bella, Rotorua, New Zealand, September 1928 [2]

Trove

Image: Crew of the Southern Cross, at the hot pools with guide, Bella, Rotorua, New Zealand, September 1928 [1] [picture] /

Crew of Southern Cross with Guide Bella at the hot pools

Crew of the Southern Cross, at the hot pools with guide, Bella, Rotorua, New Zealand, September 1928 [1] [picture] /

National Library of Australia

Tourist party, 1932

15 year old Cordelia recounts how Bella told Māori legends, sang waiata, and gave her a mat she had made

A GLORIOUS TIME" (Evening Post, 06 February 1932)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: The Duke of York with Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa, Rotorua

Duke of York, 1936

The Duke of York with Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

The Duke of York with Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa, Rotorua

Auckland Libraries

Image: Jean Batten and Arawa Chief Mita Taupopoki

Aviator Jean Batten was greeted at combined Māori & civic ceremony at Rotorua on 26 Dec 1936

Jean visited her birthplace of Rotorua (born 1909) after making first direct solo flight from England to NZ in Oct 1936

Jean Batten and Arawa Chief Mita Taupopoki

Auckland Art Gallery Toi o Tāmaki

USER STORY
Image: Jean Batten's world record solo flight to NZ

DigitalNZ Story: "Jean Batten's world record solo flight to NZ"

Jean Batten's world record solo flight to NZ

DigitalNZ

Ten thousand love letters

According to the New Zealand Times (1909), Guide Bella holds the world's record for marriage proposals after receiving 10,000 offers: 

"Some years ago there came to Whaka two tourists who greatly admired Bella, and told her laughingly as they left that they would provide her with a white husband. When these two gentlemen returned to America they concocted a hoax. On the foundation of a pretty guide at Rotorua they made up a story of a Maori Princess with £7OOO a year and expectations of unlimited money when her royal father died. This fairy tale ran through the American and English press and was believed by many. The result was startling. Letters containing offers of marriage poured into New Zealand addressed to the "Princess of Maori," "Princess Mary," or "Princess Tonomaroanui." The post office people were sorely puzzled over the deliverance of these letters until they found out that Bella had given her name as Tonomaroanui to the tourists. The letters were accordingly unloaded on Bella by the cartload, over 10,000 finding their way to her whare. "   

Source:  Ten thousand love letters, Clutha leader, Volume XXXV, Issue 75, 1 October 1909, Page 2 

Image: TEN THOUSAND LOVE LETTERS. (Clutha Leader 1-10-1909)

According to the New Zealand Times, Guide Bella holds the world's record for marriage proposals receiving 10,000 offers

TEN THOUSAND LOVE LETTERS. (Clutha Leader 1-10-1909)

National Library of New Zealand

2.  WHāNAU / Family

Image: Guide Bella

Guide Bella's birth name was Ihapera (Isabella) Pattison Thom (c.1870 - 24 Feb 1950)

Guide Bella

Auckland Libraries

Father: William Arthur Thom

Bella's father was William Arthur Thom (c.1842/1843-1929) who was an Englishman. He had travelled to NZ from Castlemaine in Victoria to join the Waikato Militia in 1863 and was based with the 1st Regiment in the Tauranga/Ōpōtiki area.  After the New Zealand Wars, he was granted an acre of land at Ōpōtiki in 1869. That same year, Thom joined the Armed Constabulary until 3 April 1872. He became a storekeeper and then worked as a court interpreter and clerk at the Resident Magistrate's Court at Rotorua in 1884, and then at Wairoa in 1887.  He then became the Deputy Registrar of Marriages, Births and Deaths at Wairoa in 1889.  See photo of William Thom

Father: Englishman William Arthur Thom (c.1842/43-1929)

Former soldier with the Waikato Militia (1863-69) & then the Armed Constabulary (1869-72)

William Arthur Thom

Auckland War Memorial Museum Tāmaki Paenga Hira

Image: Papakura, Mākereti

Father became a storekeeper & then a court interpreter & clerk (1884), & then Deputy Registrar (1889)

He was initially at the Resident Magistrate's Court at Rotorua and then at Wairoa

Papakura, Mākereti

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Mother: Rakera Ihaia

Differing accounts give Bella's mother's name as Rakera Ihaia and as Pia Te Ngarotū Te Rihi (1851-1908) of Te Arawa and Ngāti Wāhiao hapu of Tūhourangi.  Guide Bubbles has clarified that Bella's mother was Rakera who had become very ill after Bella was born and her family thought she would die.  Bella's father William Thom then married Rakera's younger sister Pia during 1870/71, who had been living in Matata since 1865.   

As explained by Guide Bubbles:  "In those days if a husband was widowed, you'd match them off to the deceased person's surviving sibling.  So what they did was marry Bella's father off to another cousin. To take it the Maori way, from his first wife he had Bella. But his second wife was a sister to the first wife and she had Maggie Papakura. So Maggie and Bella were not only first cousins, but half-sisters too. (Bella's mother Rakera in fact rallied and later remarried.)"  (Source: Paul Diamond (2008). Makereti : taking Māori to the world.  Auckland, N.Z. : Random House, p.23)  

Also see Whakapapa chart in Makereti's book "The Old-time Maori" which lists sisters Rakera and Pia and their children: http://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/MakOldT-fig-MakOldT048a.html

William Thom and his second wife Pia lived at Te Teko where he was part of the Armed Constabulary, and they looked after Bella.  In her book "Old-time Maori", Mākereti (Maggie) says her mother's name was originally Pia te Rihi but used Pia te Ngarotu after Pia's Uncle had died. See photo of Pia te Ngarotū who passed away on 1 Jan 1909.    

Image: 2018 Waitangi Rua Rautau Lecture by June Northcroft Grant

Mother: Name of Rakera Ihaia has been mentioned

After Bella was born her mother Rakera became unwell & her family thought she'd die. Custom was to marry wife's relative

2018 Waitangi Rua Rautau Lecture by June Northcroft Grant

Radio New Zealand

Image: Whakapapa of Mākereti Papakura

Mother: Name of Pia Te Ngarotū Te Rihi (1851-1908) has also been mentioned

Bella's father then married her mother's sister Pia who became Bella's step-mother

Whakapapa of Mākereti Papakura

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

SiBLINGS:

Bella's father and his second wife Pia had two children: Margaret (Maggie) Pattison Thom (20 Oct 1872 - 16 April 1930) and Richard (Dick or Tiki) Thom (1873-1962).  

Bella's half-sister Maggie Tom was raised by Pia's paternal aunt Mārara Marotaua and uncle Maihi Te Kakau Parāoa.  Maggie lived with them at Parekārangi for the first nine years of her life and was taught the history and customs of her Iwi and spoke only in Māori. After Maggie returned to live with her father, mother Pia, half-sister Bella and brother Dick, she attended school and learnt to speak English. After her first marriage ended in divorce in 1900, Maggie became a world-renowned guide at Whakarewarewa.

Image: Makereti Papakura

Half-sister: Guide Maggie (Mākereti) Papakura was born Margaret Pattison Thom (20 Oct 1872 - 16 April 1930)

Raised by mother's paternal aunt & uncle, Mārara Marotaua & Maihi te Kakau Parāoa, for first 9 years & spoke only Māori

Makereti Papakura

Alexander Turnbull Library

Bella's half-brother Richard (Dick or Tiki) Thom became a musician who played during concerts at Whakarewarewa. He was in the Kings Theatre Orchestra which provided music for silent movies and in the Rotorua Māori Brass Band.  Dick was also a rugby union and rugby league player. He became a guide at Whakarewarewa known as Guide Tiki Papakura. (Source:  ATL:  PAColl-10208-1 Photographs relating to nursing and geothermal attractions. Pugh family prints (ca. 1942-43) of Ohinemutu include Guide Tiki (Dick) Papakura).  He was appointed head caretaker in 1944.

Image: 1904 Rotorua Maori Rugby team.

Half-brother: Richard Thom (1873-1962) known as Dick & Tiki (Front row: 3rd right)

He was musician, rugby union and rugby league player, and became a Guide at Whakarewarewa

1904 Rotorua Maori Rugby team.

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Surname of 'Papakura' was chosen on the spur of the moment by Guide Maggie.  

As recounted by Guide Rangi:

"One day a tourist asked Maggie if she had a Maori Christian name. Maggie said it was Makereti, the Maori equivalent of Margaret. The tourist then asked what her surname was in Maori. Maggie figured that the tourist must be satisfied at all costs. She glanced round for inspiration and saw the geyser Papakura bubbling away nearby. ‘My surname is Papakura,’ she replied straight-faced. The tourists took it in, but Maggie’s friends erupted in gales of laughter when they heard her recount the story. Maggie Papakura she remained from that day onward. The name spread also to her sister Bella, and her brother Dick, who also became a famous guide, Rugby footballer and band leader." (Rangitiaria Dennan  & Annabell Ross (1968) Guide Rangi of Rotorua. Christchurch: Whitcombe & Tombs, p.49) 

Image: Papakura Geyser at Whakawera

'Papakura' was an inspirationally assumed surname

When asked by a tourist if she had a Māori surname, Maggie gave name of the geyser Papakura, which close family adopted

Papakura Geyser at Whakawera

Auckland Libraries

Source

3.  Schooling: Rotorua, Tauranga & Napier

A mention of Bella attending the new native school at Ohinemutu and passing the exams for Standard 2 during 1881 was made by William Bird in his booklet, 'Rotorua's first school', Rotorua Primary School Souvenir booklet (Rotorua, 1936, page 7). Bird had been Chief Inspector of Native Schools and Superintendent of Māori education.  

Source: D. M. Stafford (1986). The founding years in Rotorua : a history of events to 1900.  Auckland N.Z. : Ray Richards ; Rotorua N.Z. : Rotorua District Council, p. 214. 

Image: EDUCATION: NATIVE SCHOOLS.

In 1881, Bella, Maggie & Dick were listed on the roll of 42 students at Ohinemutu Native School

This new native school had opened in Jan 1880

EDUCATION: NATIVE SCHOOLS.

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Iriwhiro and William Watson Bird, inspector of Maori schools

School inspector Bird: Isabella Thom passed Std 2 but Maggie & Dick amongst 26 absent on examination day in 1881

Source: William Bird, "Rotorua's first school', Rotorua Primary School Souvenir Booklet, 1936, p.7

Iriwhiro and William Watson Bird, inspector of Maori schools

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Te Wairoa schoolhouse, Lake Tarawera, 1884

In 1884, Bella was listed on the roll for the Native School at Te Wairoa near Lake Tarawera where she passed Std 4

That same year, Maggie was on the roll at Ohinemutu Native School but was absent at the annual examination

Te Wairoa schoolhouse, Lake Tarawera, 1884

Auckland Libraries

Bella and her sister Maggie also attended Willow Bank School for girls in Tauranga run by Mrs Clara Stoddard which had been set up in 1883.  After spending a year with a private governess, they attended Hukarere College in Napier for three years. (Source: Paul Diamond (2008).  Makereti : taking Māori to the world.  Auckland, N.Z. : Random House, p.26). 

Image: Class of Maori Girls, Hukarere Native School, Napier

Attended Willow Bank in Tauranga and Hukarere College in Napier

In-between both schools, Bella and Maggie had a private governess for a year

Class of Maori Girls, Hukarere Native School, Napier

Auckland Libraries

When asked by a newspaper reporter in 1906 where she was educated, Maggie said, "We went first of all to a ladies' school at Tauranga, but after a year of it nothing would persuade us to go back. We were so young and so frightened, and we couldn't speak a word of English, so you can imagine how the other girls teased us. I thought on the whole that we were treated rather badly. Eventually we mastered English, and later we went to the ladies' school at Houkarere, Napier. The three years spent there were delightful, and I should have liked to have stayed long. I think an important element in the training at this school is that you have to qualify in domestic economy before you get your certificate for passing the upper standards."   

Source: Papers Past:   The Exhbition: Maggie Papakura: A chat with a famous guide: Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle, 11 December 1906, page 3: https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/OSWCC19061211.2.10

Maggie describes schooling at Tauranga & Napier, and guiding experiences with Bella

Maggie was being interviewed at NZ's International Exhibition held in Christchurch, 1906

THE EXHIBITION. (Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle, 11 December 1906)

National Library of New Zealand

4. THOM FAMILY MOVE TO WAIROA, 1887

In 1887, the year after her Uncle Maihi Te Kakauparoa died, Pia and William Thom moved to Wairoa.  William became Deputy Registrar of Marriages, Births and Deaths in 1889.  "That same year,  after William began a relationship with a Pākehā  woman, Pia returned to Rotorua. Pia successfully applied for Makereti, Ihapera and Tiki (then aged 15, 16 and 14) to inherit land at Whakarewarewa owned by Maihi Te Kakauparoa." (Source: Diamond, op cit, pp. 27-28).  William became a Native Land Purchase Officer in 1892. Later that year, he married for the third time. His wife was Mary Finlayson (1873-1947)  who was thirty years younger and they had seven children.  Meanwhile, in 1892 Pia married Panapa Nihotai, and lived with him and her aunt Matata at Whakarewarewa.  Maggie helped her mother to rebuild her house in 1897. (Source: Diamond, ibid, p. 39) 

Image: New Zealand. Department of Lands and Survey : New Zealand Four-mile Sheet No 10 [map]. 1949

Thom family move to Wairoa in 1887, and Pia and children return to Rotorua in 1889

Map includes boundaries for Rotorua & Wairoa counties

New Zealand. Department of Lands and Survey : New Zealand Four-mile Sheet No 10 [map]. 1949

Alexander Turnbull Library

5.  Bella's MARRIAGE

Bella married twice - firstly to Tamati Paora and then to Aperahama Wiāri. Both husbands were carvers. Tamati carved Wahiao located at Whakarewarewa. Aperahama built Te Awa i Manukau opposite the Catholic Church at the top of Tukiterangi Street for Bella in 1925. June Northcroft Grant says, "Bella had no children but whangaied Whakarato Haira and many children living in the pa in the 1920s including my father. If you turned up at dinner time, you got fed, if you turned up at night time you slept in the whare."  

Source:  June Northcroft Grant. A tale of two sisters,  RNZ Waitangi Rua Rautau lecture (13 Feb 2018)

Image: The Maoris at Whakarewarewa welcome the members of the French mission

Bella married twice to men who were carvers

First husband, Tamati Paora, carved Wahiao located at Whakarewarewa

The Maoris at Whakarewarewa welcome the members of the French mission

Auckland Libraries

Second husband Aperahama Wiāri built Te Awa i Manukau for Bella in 1925

A rugby player, Aperahama was part of NZ's Coronation Contingent for King Edward VII at London, 1902

THE KING'S CORONATION (Otago Witness, 09 April 1902)

National Library of New Zealand

6. Guide at Whakarewarewa

Both Bella and her sister Maggie became guides at Whakarewarewa.  Later they were joined by their brother Dick who was also a musician and a rugby union and rugby league player.  

Image: Whakarewarewa - thermal and cultural attractions - Roadside Stories

Video on history of Whakarewarewa (4min 53 sec)

Whakarewarewa - thermal and cultural attractions - Roadside Stories

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Image: Sophia Hinerangi

Bella & sister Maggie were taught by Guide Sophia Herangi (Te Paea Hinerangi)

Guide Sophia (1830-1911) survived Mt. Tarawera eruption in 1886, after which tourism operations shifted to Whakarewarewa

Sophia Hinerangi

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: MAGGIE PAPAKURA AND HER SISTER BELLA, TWO WELL-KNOWN NATIVE GUIDES, WHAKAREWAREWA, ROTORUA

Guides Bella and Maggie, c1900s. Guiding provided an income for Maggie after parting from her husband

MAGGIE PAPAKURA AND HER SISTER BELLA, TWO WELL-KNOWN NATIVE GUIDES, WHAKAREWAREWA, ROTORUA

Auckland Libraries

Maggie had married a surveyor, Francis (Frank) Joseph Dennan, on 4 May 1891 at  her father's Wairoa home. They lived in the Wairarapa area and had a child, William Francis Te Aonui Dennan, on 5 November. Later they separated after Francis travelled to Taupō for several months surveying and then surveyed in other areas.  Another son, Reginald Roy Dennan, was born in 1898 who passed away. Maggie returned to Whakarewarewa with her first son Te Aonui to live and petitioned for divorce for desertion in Dec 1899 which was granted in 1900. She returned to Whakarewarewa and took up guiding to help earn an income.  Her son Te Aonui was sent to an Auckland boarding school, Wesley College, in 1900 until 1907 when he was 15. 

Maggie had married Francis (Frank) Joseph Dennan, a surveyor, on 7 May 1891 & filed for divorce in Dec 1899

They lived in Wairapapa area & their son Francis William (Te Aonui) Dennan was born on 5 Nov 1891.

SUPREME COURT. (Hawke's Bay Herald, 01 March 1900)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Makereti Papakura - Photograph taken by the New Zealand Government Tourist Department

With her husband away for months surveying, Maggie cited desertion since 1892

Francis travelled to Taupō for several months surveying and then surveyed in other areas

Makereti Papakura - Photograph taken by the New Zealand Government Tourist Department

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Maggie Papakura

Maggie returned to Rotorua with her son to live

Maggie's son then went to Wesley College, 1900-1907

Maggie Papakura

Auckland Libraries

Image: The Waihi Football representative team, 1900

Dick (Tiki) in the Waihi Football representative team, 1900

Third row from back, on the left: D. Thom

The Waihi Football representative team, 1900

Auckland Libraries

Image: 1904 Rugby game in progress on Pukeroa Hill

Dick (Tiki) played in Rotorua First XV team which beat Britain, 22 Aug 1904

The team, also known as the Arawa XV, beat the touring British team: 8-6

1904 Rugby game in progress on Pukeroa Hill

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Image: MOTORING IN THE THERMAL REGIONS: A TOURIST PARTY AT WHAKAREWAREWA, ROTORUA

Bella with touring party, 11 Aug 1904

MOTORING IN THE THERMAL REGIONS: A TOURIST PARTY AT WHAKAREWAREWA, ROTORUA

Auckland Libraries

The  Department of Tourist and Health Resorts had been created in 1901.  General Manager Thomas Edward Donne encouraged tourism development, including at Rotorua, with government owned spas and resorts.  

Image: Guide Bella

Guiding formalised by Dept of Tourism & Health Resorts, 1905

The Tourist Department formalised guiding and the operation of the Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve

Guide Bella

Auckland Libraries

Image: Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

First licensed guide was Bella

Bella received Guide Certificate No.1 in 1905 when she was 35 years old

Guide Bella at Whakarewarewa

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Bella Papakura

Bella Papakura

Auckland Libraries

 In her book, "Guide to the Hot Lakes district and some Maori legends" (1905, p.36),  Maggie says 

"A guide to the sights of Whaka can always be obtained to show visitors over the same – Pipi, Sophia, Bella, Mary, Ngana, Tare, Miriama, others, and myself. It takes from an hour to two hours to look round properly, and to give visitors ample time to admire the boiling cauldrons, porridge pots, and various sights.

Image: Group of Maori women including Maggie and Bella Papakura

Bella and Maggie with group of women, c1900s

Group of Maori women including Maggie and Bella Papakura

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Feather cloaks

Group of guides at Whakarewarewa, including Maggie, wearing cloaks of kiwi feathers, c.1900

Feather cloaks

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Ructions between guides: A guide with sightseers in tow was removed from the reserve where Bella & Maggie worked, 1905

Court case for assault dropped when owners produced title to the land - had protected own land from trespassing

The Fretful Porcupine (Observer, 04 February 1905)

National Library of New Zealand

The Department of Tourist and Health Resorts commissioned photographers to produce images of Rotorua to be used in photographs and postcards. One of these photographers was Arthur Iles whose photographs included Bella and Maggie.

Image: Makereti Papakura and Guide Bella Thom

Photo of Makereti Papakura and Guide Bella Thom taken by Rotorua photographer Arthur James Iles, 1904

Makereti Papakura and Guide Bella Thom

Hocken Collections - Uare Taoka o Hākena, University of Otago

Image: Guides Maggie and Bella

Photograph reproduced on a souvenir tin plate by George Hadfield & Company for Arthur Iles (c.1901-1905)

Guides Maggie and Bella

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Image: Album of Maori guides

Album 229: 17 postcards of Guides, including Guide Bella, taken between 1900-1919

Maggie's diary entries (1907-8) record that she organised photographic sittings & ordered photos & postcards for selling

Album of Maori guides

Auckland Libraries

According to Guide Bubbles Mihinui: "Guiding wasn’t a job, it was a vocation. We weren’t there to tell visitors the geysers were so many degrees centigrade. None of us knew that anyway. We were there to talk about them from our perspective. What the geyser meant to us, and how our ordinary and not so ordinary lives depended on it."  

Source:  Bubbles Mihinui  & Cushla Parekowhai (1991). “Guide Bella, Bella Te Hoari Papakura” in The Book of New Zealand Women: Ko Kui Ma Te Kaupapa. Ed. by Charlotte Macdonald, Merimeri Penfold & Bridget Williams. Wellington: Bridget William Books, pp.488-491. (Page 491)

Image: OPENING THE TAMATEKAPUA MEETING-HOUSE AT ROTORUA: THE VICE-REGAL, PARTY, MEMBERS OF THE MAORI COUNCIL'S CONFERENCE. AND VISITORS AT THE OPENING CEREMONY. MARCH 14, 1905

Guide Bella employed to supervise the construction of the panels of tukutuku for Tamatekapua

The meeting house's official opening on 14 March 1906 was attended by the Governor-General Lord Plunket

OPENING THE TAMATEKAPUA MEETING-HOUSE AT ROTORUA: THE VICE-REGAL, PARTY, MEMBERS OF THE MAORI COUNCIL'S CONFERENCE. AND VISITORS AT THE OPENING CER...

Auckland Libraries

Image: Anaha, Tene and Neke, the famous carvers, standing in front of the carved house. Sitting in front are Bella, Maggie and Pipi, the guides

Guides Bella, Maggie and Pipi seated in front of carvers Anaha, Teke and Neke, 24 March 1906

Anaha, Tene and Neke, the famous carvers, standing in front of the carved house. Sitting in front are Bella, Maggie and Pipi, the guides

Auckland Libraries

To coax Wairoa Geyser to be active it was 'soaped' by Miss Card, Maggie & Bella with Premier Seddon's consent, 1906

NEW ZEALAND : GENERAL (New Zealand Tablet, 14 June 1906)

National Library of New Zealand

Two eruptions occurred at Whakarewarewa near Guide Bella's house at 11.30pm on 2 Nov 1906

NEW GEYSER. (Feilding Star, 03 November 1906)

National Library of New Zealand

Bella also became secretary of the Whakarewarewa Temperance Union

Ellen Hewett visited Rotorua in 1886 & set up Temperance Union branches (Stafford, 1986, p.417)

LOCAL AND GENERAL. (Evening Post, 26 October 1896)

National Library of New Zealand

Lady Stout discusses training options for Māori girls, including a laundry managed by Bella (1908)

The laundry is run in connection with "one of the leading hotels", and employs 14 in height of season

TRAINING THE MAORI. (Marlborough Express, 07 July 1908)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Three well-known guides (Whakarewarewa)

Bella, Maggie & Pipi

28 December 1907

Three well-known guides (Whakarewarewa)

Auckland Libraries

Image: W Beattie & Company :Bella the princess, Whakarewarewa, N.Z. W Beattie & Co., publishers no. B 9, Auckland, N.Z. New Zealand post card 95573. Printed in Germany [ca 1910]

NZ Postcard: Bella the Princess, 1910

Shows a colour-printed photograph by William Beattie & Company

W Beattie & Company :Bella the princess, Whakarewarewa, N.Z. W Beattie & Co., publishers no. B 9, Auckland, N.Z. New Zealand post card 95573. Print...

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Makereti Papakura and her sister Bella Papakura

Maggie (left) and Bella (c.1910)

Makereti Papakura and her sister Bella Papakura

Alexander Turnbull Library

Newspaper article with Guide Bella describing seeing a thunderbolt at Rotorua, 1910

THUNDERBOLT AT ROTORUA. (Marlborough Express, 18 May 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Tile

Pottery tile showing Guide Bella

Maker: Sherwin & Cotton Tile Co. (estab. 1877, closed 1930)

Tile

Te Awamutu Museum

7. Cultural Performances in NZ

Maggie and Bella formed a concert party which performed waiata, poi dances and haka at the Geyser Hotel in Whakarewarewa and the Assembly Hall in Rotorua. Bella was the composer and choreographer and Maggie led the choir.   

Rotorua:

1st Annual Rotorua Carnival, 24-26 Feb 1903

Evening Entertainment Committee include Bella Thom and Maggie Papakura who organised haka and poi dancers

THE ROTORUA CARNIVAL. (Auckland Star, 26 January 1903)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Bella's poi dancers at Whaka - a much-admired octette

Bella's poi dancers at Whakarewarewa (11 June 1904)

Bella's poi dancers at Whaka - a much-admired octette

Auckland Libraries

Image: The Rotorua Maori brass band, the bandmaster J Munro with the baton

Rotorua Māori Brass Band also performed regularly in the Sanatorium Grounds

One of the band members was brother Dick Thom (Stafford, 1986, p.389)

The Rotorua Maori brass band, the bandmaster J Munro with the baton

Auckland Libraries

Image: The Whakarewarewa girls, led by Bella, performing the canoe poi

Canoe poi - women sit in a line representing canoe paddlers

Guide Bella in the lead and Guide Maggie at the rear (26 Aug 1908)

The Whakarewarewa girls, led by Bella, performing the canoe poi

Auckland Libraries

 In her book "Guide to the Hot Lakes district and some Maori legends" (1905),  Maggie says: 

"Tourists wishing to see a haka or poi dance, can always see one in Whaka, which can be arranged at a very short notice. These dances take place in the hall opposite the Geyser Hotel, under the leadership of Bella. Pipi also is an accomplished performer. The poi dance is very pretty. The poi-balls are swung by the hand, not unlike club swinging, but mostly wrist work. The canoe poi, one of the most interesting variations of the dance, was invented by Bella.  All the girls sit on the floor, imitating the paddling of a canoe with the poi-balls. The performers wear piupiu (skirts)."  (p.24)

A digitised version of the book can be viewed online at the State Library of Victoria.  A photo of 'Bella, the Maori princess' is on page 21. 

Image: Maggie Papakura, around 1910

Maggie wrote "Guide to the Hot Lakes district and some Maori legends" (1905), 88 pages

The book gives a description of tourist sites and Māori legends. The photos also include Maggie and Bella.

Maggie Papakura, around 1910

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Christchurch: 1906-1907

The New Zealand International Exhibition was held in Hagley Park, Christchurch from 1 November 1906 - 15 April 1907.  Thomas Edward Donne, the General Manager of the Department of Tourist and Health Resorts, was appointed Vice-President and Executive Commissioner for the Exhibition. Donne encouraged the showcasing of Rotorua tourism amongst the exhibits, including setting up a model Māori village.

Image: THE EXHIBITION (Otago Daily Times 30-11-1906)

NZ's International Exhibition held at Christchurch (1 Nov 1906-15 April 1907)

Guides Bella & Maggie Papakura & poi dancers at the International Exhibition

THE EXHIBITION (Otago Daily Times 30-11-1906)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: A Superior elevated Storehouse or pataka. Erected at a model native village at Christchurch Exhibition 1906

A model Māori village was erected at the Christchurch Exhibition

A Superior elevated Storehouse or pataka. Erected at a model native village at Christchurch Exhibition 1906

Victoria University of Wellington

A description of the ceremony at the International Exhibition, including 22 poi dancers led by Bella

AN INTERESTING MAORI CEREMONY: (Otago Witness, 05 December 1906)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Group of Māori at New Zealand International Exhibition

Group of Māori at New Zealand International Exhibition

Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa

Back at Rotorua: 1907 -

The troupe continued to perform concerts in Rotorua.  In addition, brother Dick (Tiki) was selected to play for the New Zealand Māoris rugby league team touring Australia in 1908 which was organised by Albert Asher. The following year, Tiki played in two exhibition matches in Sydney organised by New South Wales promoter Mr Ford, and Maggie and others accompanied the players.

Book: "Emerald hours in New Zealand' by Alys Lowth (1907)

A reference to the sweet singing of Maggie's sister Bella is included in this travel journal from Auckland to Bluff

REVIEW. (Wairarapa Daily Times, 15 March 1907)

National Library of New Zealand

Brother Tiki (Dick) played rugby league for New Zealand Māoris (1908) & for 2 Sydney exhibition matches (1909)

NZ Māoris tour to Australia was organised by Albert Asher & exhibition matches organised by NSW promoter Mr Ford

MATCHES IN OTHER CENTRES. (Taranaki Herald, 02 June 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Assembly Hall, Rotorua :Easter Saturday, April 10. Unique Maori Entertainment by the Whakarewarewa Maoris, 50 performers in native attire, under the management of Guides Maggie and Bella. Ancient and stirring hakas, graceful pois, ancient Maori games, parts songs, weird Maori music. Chronicle Print, Rotorua . [Silk handkerchief].

Easter Concert at Rotorua, 10 April 1909

Easter concert programme includes 50 performers led by Guides Maggie and Bella

Assembly Hall, Rotorua :Easter Saturday, April 10. Unique Maori Entertainment by the Whakarewarewa Maoris, 50 performers in native attire, under th...

Alexander Turnbull Library

The following was published in the Otago Witness, Issue 2850,  28 October 1908, p. 29:

"An excellent story is told of Bella Papakura, sister of the famous guide at Rotorua. She was  a little while ago told off at Rotorua to entertain a prominent Christchurch citizen. Never dreaming for one moment that he understood Maori, she sat down to a piano in a rest-house and sang him some Native love songs, making terrific eyes at him all the time. Imagine her confusion when at the end of the impromptu concert the guest rose and returned thanks in faultless Maori."

Bella sang a love song in Māori and was surprised when the guest replied in faultless Māori, 1908

THE SALTATION ARMY. WELLINGTON, October 26. (Otago Witness, 28 October 1908)

National Library of New Zealand

8. Invite to perform in New York, 1909-1910

In 1909, following the tour of Whakarewarewa by the American naval fleet, the Tourist and Health Resorts Department was asked by a visiting theatrical agent to arrange a group of Māori performers to appear at the Hippodrome in New York. The request was passed onto Maggie as the Department's General Manager, Thomas Edward Donne, was transferring to the New Zealand High Commission in London. Maggie declined as the troupe was already committed to a tour to Sydney. Instead, the New York promoters were referred to Reverend Frederick Bennett who led the Māori Mission Choir and he organised the tour. The programme included the canoe poi which had originally been choreographed by Bella. 

(Source: D. M. Stafford (1988).  The new century in Rotorua : a history of events from 1900.  Auckland N.Z. ; Rotorua N.Z. : Ray Richards Publisher and Rotorua District Council) 

Invite from visiting American theatrical agent to perform at the New York Hippodrome declined by Maggie

Maggie declined as committed to a Sydney tour. Instead Rev Bennett of Māori Mission Choir organised NY tour

MAORI DANCERS FOR AMERICA. Is It a Wise Move? (New Zealand Free Lance, 10 July 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Concert party left in July 1909 & began performing in NY in Sept

Article describes tour party's travels & successful reception to the haka and poi dances at the Hippodrome

MAORIS IN NEW YORK. (Marlborough Express, 19 October 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Māori Entertainers For America

Programme included the canoe poi dance choreographed by Bella

13 of the party returned to NZ in August 1910, & the other 27 the following Sept [Source: Stafford (1988), p.56]

Māori Entertainers For America

Auckland Libraries

9.  PERFORMANCES IN Sydney: 1909-1910 

A group of Sydney businessmen approached Maggie Papakura with a proposal for a Māori concert party tour to Sydney, Melbourne and then on to England for the Festival of Empire celebrations. The organising group became known as the Arawa Māori Native Village Syndicate, and the tour manager was Charles Babbington Westmacott who was an actor and theatre company manager in Sydney.  

Source:  

Invitation to perform at Sydney Exhibition, which was opening Dec 1909

Preparations began to construct a Māori village at Clontarf, Sydney

A CHEERFUL SPIRIT. (Taranaki Herald, 21 October 1909)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: A Famous Guide's New Residence

Brother Dick shipped carvings for model village from Maggie's whare, and 2 canoes

Maggie's new whare had been officially opened in Oct 1909

A Famous Guide's New Residence

Auckland Libraries

Image: Tuhoromatakaka (Maggie Papakura's house)

Interior of Maggie's whare

Master carver Tene Waitere & assistants carved & constructed the village which could be reconstructed at other venues

Tuhoromatakaka (Maggie Papakura's house)

Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa

Image: Māori performers, who are to visit Australia

Portrait of concert party to travel to Sydney Exhibition, 24 Nov 1909

Maggie to be group leader & Bella in charge of concert party, which also included Rotorua Māori Choir formed by Maggie

Māori performers, who are to visit Australia

Auckland Libraries

Image: MR. ALFRED HILL, COMPOSER OF TAPTU

Troupe's musical director was composer Alfred Hill

MR. ALFRED HILL, COMPOSER OF TAPTU

Auckland Libraries

Image: Maori village at Clontarf. Programme of Maori entertainment by the Whakarewarewa Maoris of 60 performers - men, women, and girls - under the management of Maggie Papakura. Performances daily at 3 and 8.30 p.m. A Holmes, Printer, Chronicle Office, Newtown [1909-1910]

Poster of performances to be held at Māori village set up at Clontarf, Sydney

Maori village at Clontarf. Programme of Maori entertainment by the Whakarewarewa Maoris of 60 performers - men, women, and girls - under the manage...

Alexander Turnbull Library

Description of canoe race includes comments by Bella and her brother Tiki (Dick), Feb 1910

KAPAI TE PAKEHA. (Poverty Bay Herald, 24 February 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: The Māori in Australia: members of the Tuhourangi Troupe

Photos of the concert party's performances at the Sydney Exhibition

The Māori in Australia: members of the Tuhourangi Troupe

Auckland Libraries

10.  Performances back in NZ, 1910

Image: Maori entertainment, Town Hall, Wellington, Tuesday, 26th July 1910. Programme Part I [and] Part II [1910]

Part of the troupe, including the choir, to perform in Wellington,Town Hall July 1910

Maori entertainment, Town Hall, Wellington, Tuesday, 26th July 1910. Programme Part I [and] Part II [1910]

Alexander Turnbull Library

Review of Town Hall concert which raised funds for Y.M.C.A.

ENTERTAINMENTS. (Evening Post, 27 July 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Brother Tiki (Dick) Papakura selected for Māori team against British, July 1910

BRITON v. MAORI. (Evening Post, 19 July 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Tiki (Dick) Papakura is selected to play rugby against the British team, July 1910

THE NORTHERN UNION CAME. (Hawera & Normanby Star, 26 July 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

11. Melbourne & Sydney, Oct 1910 - April 1911

In August 1910, Maggie visited Sydney and discussed with the syndicate of businessmen the possibility of travelling to other Australian cities and then on to England. The outcome was Tene Waitere and a team of carvers leaving for Melbourne with carvings from Maggie's whare Tuhoromatakaka. The troupe of performers followed in October.  Amongst the troupe were Tiki Papakura who led the Arawa Silver Band; and the half -sister of Tiki, Bella and  Maggie from their father's third marriage - Helena Thom (also known as Lena and Rina). Also included were Tene's 13 year old grand-daughter Rangitiana Ratema, who later became known as Guide Rangi, and singer Evaline Skerrett from the Stewart Island who was known as Princess Iwa. 

The dancers, who were led by Bella and the choir by Maggie,  performed in Melbourne until 17 December 1910. The troupe then visited Sydney to perform once again at the Clontarf site in Sydney, with the opening night on Christmas Eve.  Afterwards, some of the troupe returned to NZ and the remainder stayed on until travelling to London in April 1911. (Source: Stafford, 1988, op cit, pages 97-98) 

Description of Lady Dudley's reception at the Exhibition in Melbourne, including Tiki's role

Untitled (Poverty Bay Herald, 06 December 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Troupe travel from Melbourne to Sydney to perform on Christmas Eve, 1910

ACROSS THE FOOTLIGHTS. (Wairarapa Daily Times, 30 December 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Iwa, the Maori contralto

Performers included the singer Princess Iwa, Arawa double quartette, and the Arawa Brass Band

Iwa, the Maori contralto

Hocken Collections - Uare Taoka o Hākena, University of Otago

12. Festival of Empire celebration in London, 1911

The syndicate of Sydney businessmen had proposed a Māori concert party tour to England for the Festival of Empire celebrations. These exhibitions were associated with the Coronation of King George V (whom Maggie had met as the Duke of Cornwall in 1901) and Queen Mary.  Chairman of the committee organising the New Zealand section of the pageant was Thomas Donne who had been appointed as Trade and Immigration Commissioner at the New Zealand High Commission in London in 1909.  He ensured that the New Zealand pavilion featured a Māori village where Maggie, Bella and their group would perform. (Source: Wikipedia: Thomas Donne: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Donne)

Initially, a world tour to England followed by Europe was envisaged

WORLD TOUR FOR MAORIS (Poverty Bay Herald, 01 September 1910)

National Library of New Zealand

Guide Mākereti had "gathered together a touring party consisting of around 40 members of her extended family, including her sister Bella, brother Tiki (Dick) Papakura, the Tūhourangi leader Mita Taupopoki, and a selected group of the finest singers and performers..."   (Source: June Northcroft-Grant. 'Papakura, Mākereti', Dictionary of New Zealand Biography, first published in 1996. Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand, https://teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/3p5/papakura-makereti

Image: Performance of a Maori action song, outside Te Rauru meeting house, Whakarewarewa

Performers thought to be the troupe that will travel to England (including Bella & her husband Aperahama, Dick & Maggie)

Performance of a Maori action song, outside Te Rauru meeting house, Whakarewarewa

Alexander Turnbull Library

At the beginning  of April 1911, the cultural group left Sydney for London and arrived in England in May 1911.  During the voyage, Guide Sophie's son, Aporo Taiawhio, died and was buried at sea near Columbo. (Source: D. M. Stafford (1988). op cit, p.98)    

Troupe of "22 men and 19 women and some children" arrive at St. Pancras Station in London, 29 April 1911

During the voyage Guide Sophie's son, Aporo Taiawhio, died and was buried at sea near Columbo

THE MAORIS ARRIVE IN LONDON (Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle, 20 June 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Maggie Papakura and her Māori troupe in London

Troupe's performers also included a brass band, a quartet, choir and the singer Iwa

Maggie Papakura and her Māori troupe in London

Auckland Libraries

Image: TAPU VIOLATED (Taranaki Daily News 18-7-1911)

Difficulties experienced setting up Māori village in London for the Exhibition which was to be open for tours

TAPU VIOLATED (Taranaki Daily News 18-7-1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: UK kapa haka tour, 1911

Poster advertises group's performances at London's Crystal Palace Theatre

UK kapa haka tour, 1911

Manatū Taonga, the Ministry for Culture and Heritage

Image: MAORI MUSIC. (Mataura Ensign 21-6-1911)

Bella explains 4 classes of songs: speeches or chants of welcome, love songs, lullabies & chants over graves of dead

MAORI MUSIC. (Mataura Ensign 21-6-1911)

National Library of New Zealand

"They appeared at various venues including Crystal Palace, the Palace Theatre and White City and entertained thousands of visitors with songs and dances, story-telling and whaikōrero (speech-making). An accompanying exhibition of Māori artefacts, including a meeting house and storehouse, was equally popular with the crowds. The newspapers eagerly reported the group's activities, including the christening of a baby born to one of their members shortly after arrival in England. A highlight was the launching of a 45-foot canoe named Te Arawa at the Henley Royal Regatta."   

Source:  June Northcroft-Grant, ibid.

Image: Crystal Palace Theatre. Maggie Papakura, the Arawa warriors and Maori maidens. Programme [1911]

Crystal Palace Theatre Programme, 1911

Crystal Palace Theatre. Maggie Papakura, the Arawa warriors and Maori maidens. Programme [1911]

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: " MAGGIE THE GUIDE." (Taranaki Daily News 5-7-1911)

"Oh, Bella is our leading lady," Maggie smiled; "we couldn't leave her behind. She is to lead the dances."

" MAGGIE THE GUIDE." (Taranaki Daily News 5-7-1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: THE CORONATION (Taranaki Daily News 12-8-1911)

Four of the troupe, including Dick and Aperahama, attended the NZ procession for the King's Coronation

THE CORONATION (Taranaki Daily News 12-8-1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Two newspaper cuttings relating to the Maori rugby team, Te Arawa

Dick Papakura became captain of rugby team called 'Te Arawa, at the White City, London' formed during 2011 tour

Two newspaper cuttings relating to the Maori rugby team, Te Arawa

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Naming the first Māori baby ever born out of New Zealand

When on tour a child was born to Rua & Here Tawhai. Ceremony held to name first Māori baby born outside NZ, 23 Aug 1911

Naming the first Māori baby ever born out of New Zealand

Auckland Libraries

Image: A Novelty At The Great English Regatta At Henley

45-foot canoe 'Te Arawa' at the Henley Royal Regatta

A Novelty At The Great English Regatta At Henley

Auckland Libraries

Crew of men and women, which included Bella's husband Aperahama & sister Maggie, have a practice run

MAORIS AT HENLEY. (Colonist, 26 August 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Article describes the Henley event

HENLEY REGATTA, (Evening Post, 28 August 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

The film "Snapshots of Henley" includes the waka

ENTERTAINMENTS. (Evening Post, 29 September 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: ENGLISHMAN AND MAORI. (Mataura Ensign 27-11-1911)

Maggie becomes engaged to Richard Staples-Browne (Nov 1911)

Richard was a wealthy landowner whom Maggie had guided around Rotorua in 1907 & they met up again in England

ENGLISHMAN AND MAORI. (Mataura Ensign 27-11-1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Bella & 10 members of troupe continue to perform in Māori theatre at White City during Sept 2011

Other members had returned to Crystal Palace, as the agreement with White City terminated on 16 Sept

PERSONAL NOTES FROM HOME. (Otautau Standard and Wallace County Chronicle, 07 November 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Palace Theatre, Nov 1911

Te Awa to perform "Waiata Poi" solo "to the accompaniment of the rhythmic-tapping of the girls, led by Bella"

ABOUT PEOPLE. NOTES FROM LONDON. (Evening Post, 23 November 1911)

National Library of New Zealand

Troupe, including Bella, Maggie & Dick, depart homewards for NZ, Nov 1911

THE ARAWA MAORIS (Evening Post, 04 January 1912)

National Library of New Zealand

13. Back in NZ: Jan 1912 

The troupe arrived back in Auckland on 9 January 1912 and reached Rotorua two days later by train. Newspapers reported that they received a hostile reception. 

Troupe arrive at Auckland on 9 Jan 1912

Bella, Maggie, and Chief Mita Taupopoki, together with half the troupe, arrive back from England

PERSONAL MATTERS. (Wairarapa Daily Times, 08 January 1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Troupe receive hostile reception from people at Whakarewarewa

Issues included: length of time away, financial losses, only half troupe returning, & person dying & buried at sea

THE MAORI TROUPE. (Ohinemuri Gazette, 15 January 1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: HOME AGAIN. (Taranaki Daily News 10-1-1912)

The tour's manager, Mr. C. B. Westmacott, explains why 20 of the troupe stayed behind in England

HOME AGAIN. (Taranaki Daily News 10-1-1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: MAORIS IN LONDON. (Clutha Leader 12-1-1912)

Westmacott discusses the difficulties encountered on tour & his indebtedness to Bella

MAORIS IN LONDON. (Clutha Leader 12-1-1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: MAORI TROUPE'S RECEPTION. (Taranaki Daily News 17-1-1912)

Later newspaper reports state hostility was exaggerated

Newspapers qualified reports about the hostilities as being exaggerated as actions were in keeping with death customs

MAORI TROUPE'S RECEPTION. (Taranaki Daily News 17-1-1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Maggie's recollection of events when on tour in England

MAGGIE PAPAKURA. (Evening Post, 12 March 1912)

National Library of New Zealand

14. Bella leads troupe without Maggie: 1912 -

Maggie returned to England & married second husband Richard Charles Staples-Brown on 16 June 1912

They lived in Oxfordshire. During WWI, they opened their home to injured NZ troops & installed a memorial in the chapel

MAGGIE PAPAKURA'S ROMANCE. (Poverty Bay Herald, 04 July 1912)

National Library of New Zealand

Maggie's son Te Aonui from her first marriage served with the Royal Engineers at Gallipoli, Egypt and France

After the war, Te Aonui lived in Oxford and married Madge, with whom he had three children

DENNAN, William Francis Aonui

Archives New Zealand Te Rua Mahara o te Kāwanatanga

Image: MAORI REINFORCEMENTS (Otago Daily Times 18-9-1915)

Bella & troupe perform at Auckland farewell for Māori soldiers, 1915

16 women led by Guide Bella performed at the Auckland farewell for 220 Māori soldiers departing for Wellington

MAORI REINFORCEMENTS (Otago Daily Times 18-9-1915)

National Library of New Zealand

Bella had an acting role in the silent movie "The Betrayer" which screened in 1921.  Silent films would often have a piano, organ or musical accompaniment. Bella's brother Dick was a member of the King's Theatre Orchestra - see photo on  the Rotorua Museum's Facebook page, 16 May 2021 (Dick is on the right) 

Bella has acting role in Beaumont Smith's silent movie "The Betrayer" which screened in 1921

Brother Dick also performed in the King's Theatre Orchestra which provided music for silent movies

ENTERTAINMENTS (Ashburton Guardian, 14 June 1921)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Guide Bella Dancing A Haka

Guide Bella, 20 August 1925

Guide Bella Dancing A Haka

Auckland Libraries

15. BELLA BECAME SEnior guide: 1920S - 1930s

In the 1920s & 1930s, the senior guide at Whakarewarewa was Bella. The new guides for training were selected by Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao Chief Mita Taupopoki.  

As the senior guide at Whakarewarewa, Bella would walk slowly behind the apprentice guides correcting them as they went. (Source:  Kökiri Paetae (2002), Kökiri Paetae: A Celebration of Mäori Achievements. November, p.4)  

"Bella was in the background all the time," recalled Guide Bubbles Mihinui, "working and teaching in her own quiet way. I feel of all the guides, Bella had the most influence, She was our mentor as well as our kuia … Bella and her generation of guides had a caring attitude. She hated the word ‘tourist’ because it has cheapening connotations. She said, ‘Think of it in Maori terms, any stranger to our place is manuhiri – a visitor. Treat them all like that and people will respond.’ Maori, whether we know it or not, communicate well with body language. That’s what Bella used to get her point across. Every single one of her visitors were able to relate to her without any words at all

Source:  Mihinui, Bubbles & Cushla Parekowhai (1991). “Guide Bella, Bella Te Hoari Papakura” in The Book of New Zealand Women: Ko Kui Ma Te Kaupapa. Edited by Charlotte Macdonald, Merimeri Penfold & Bridget Williams. Wellington: Bridget William Books, pp.488-491 

Image: Guide Bella

As senior guide in the 1920s & 1930s, Bella taught new guides

The guides were selected by Tūhourangi Ngāti Wāhiao Chief Mita Taupopoki

Guide Bella

Rotorua Museum of Art & History Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa

Image: Bristol Freighter tour, Rotorua, showing Mr A E Davis receiving a poi brooch from Guide Bubbles, next to a Bristol Freighter aircraft

One of Bella's pupils was Guide Bubbles (1919-2006) who became a registered guide in 1938

Bristol Freighter tour, Rotorua, showing Mr A E Davis receiving a poi brooch from Guide Bubbles, next to a Bristol Freighter aircraft

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Bella Te Hoari Papakura performing an action song, location unidentified

Guide Bella performing an action song, c.1930s

Bella Te Hoari Papakura performing an action song, location unidentified

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Three Māori women, including Bella Te Hoari Papakura, performing a waiata, Waikato

Guides Susan, Rangi & Bella at Waikato River and railway bridge, Ngāruawāhia, c.1930s

Three Māori women, including Bella Te Hoari Papakura, performing a waiata, Waikato

Alexander Turnbull Library

Work by the Whakarewarewa Beautifying Committee to include planting punga ferns near Guide Bella's house, 1933

IMPROVING WHAKAREWAREWA (Evening Post, 29 May 1933)

National Library of New Zealand

Bella presented "handsome china tea set" to Guide Eileen departing back to Levin after 22 years (1933)

GUIDE FOR 22 YEARS (Evening Post, 30 October 1933)

National Library of New Zealand

16. Memorial to sister Maggie at whakarewarewa, 1931

After her divorce to her second husband Richard Staples-Brown was made absolute on 27 July 1925, Maggie moved to Oxford. She had already become an associate member of the Oxford University Anthropological Society in 1922. She visited Rotorua during 1926 on a study trip to research Te Arawa culture and to consult with elders. 

Source:  June Northcroft-Grant. 'Papakura, Mākereti', Dictionary of New Zealand Biography, first published in 1996. Te Ara - the Encyclopedia of New Zealand, https://teara.govt.nz/en/biographies/3p5/papakura-makereti  

Image: Page from scrapbook with photograph of Captain Richard Staples-Browne

Maggie & Richard were divorced on 27 July 1925

Maggie had joined the Oxford University Anthropological Society in 1922 & moved to Oxford after her divorce

Page from scrapbook with photograph of Captain Richard Staples-Browne

Alexander Turnbull Library

Image: Makereti, Lady Pomare and Ana Pomare

Maggie arrived in NZ on a study trip on 21 Jan 1926

Meanwhile, Richard remarried a widow, Katharine Hildrich Johns, on 6 Jan 1926

Makereti, Lady Pomare and Ana Pomare

Alexander Turnbull Library

Maggie visited Rotorua to research Te Arawa culture from women's perspective and to consult with elders

She left NZ on 6 July and arrived back in England in Aug 1926

HER OWN LAND (Evening Post, 21 January 1926)

National Library of New Zealand

After completing a Diploma in Anthropology in 1927, Maggie was encouraged to present her written research on Te Arawa as a thesis. She enrolled for a B.Sc degree in Anthropology in 1928.  However, Maggie became unwell that year and sent a letter home in early 1929 to say she was slowly recovering.  

When back in England, Maggie gave public talks on Māori legends, customs & traditions

Addresses included the Women’s Institute, a speech during the 1924 British Empire Exhibition, & BBC Radio 1927

BRITISH BROADCASTING (Evening Post, 23 December 1926)

National Library of New Zealand

In 1927 Maggie completed Diploma in Anthropology & began thesis for BSc. at Oxford (1928)

Her son Te Aonui also enrolled for a diploma in engineering. He had married (Madge) and they had three children.

WOMEN IN PRINT. (Evening Post, 21 June 1927)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Letter from Makereti Papakura to her father

Maggie became unwell and sent a letter home to her father, 2 Feb 1929

She'd been unwell since the previous year and was beginning to recover, & had shifted house for financial reasons

Letter from Makereti Papakura to her father

Alexander Turnbull Library

Maggie died unexpectedly of a heart attack at Oxford on 16 April 1930, just three weeks prior to having her thesis examined on 7 May.  (Source:  Emma  Gattey.  Makereiti: Māori 'insider' anthropology at Oxford. University of Oxford: Oxford and Empire Network: https://oxfordandempire.web.ox.ac.uk/article/makereti

See photo of  Maggie's grave at Oddington Cemetary in Oxfordshire:  https://go4travelblog.l.0bam.net/maggie-papakura/ Maggie's former husband Richard Staples-Brown died on 5 June 1932. 

Maggie died of a heart attack at Oxford on 16 April 1930, three weeks prior to having her thesis examined

The news had been cabled to Bella

TOPICS FOR WOMEN (Evening Post, 22 April 1930)

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Tribute to a well-known and highly-esteemed Māori guide: the unveiling of the memorial to Maggie Papakura at Rotorua

Memorial for Maggie carved by Aperahama Wiāri & Tamati Paora (Bella's husbands), & Te Ngaru Ranapai

Totara column carved on all faces & surrounded by figure of a woman representing Maggie, with inscriptions at the base

Tribute to a well-known and highly-esteemed Māori guide: the unveiling of the memorial to Maggie Papakura at Rotorua

Auckland Libraries

Image: Clark, Charles Troughton 1890-1979 :Photograph of unveiling of memorial to Makereti, Whakarewarewa

Maggie's unveiling was held in 1931, a year after her burial at Oxfordshire

According to her wishes, Maggie was buried at the Oddington Cemetery in Oxfordshire

Clark, Charles Troughton 1890-1979 :Photograph of unveiling of memorial to Makereti, Whakarewarewa

Alexander Turnbull Library

Unveiling attended by Bella, Dick & Maggie's son Te Aonui (who travelled from Oxford for 9 month visit to tidy affairs)

As Maggie was half Māori and half Pākehā, two veils were removed: veil of mats & a flag

MAORI EVENT (Evening Post, 11 August 1931)

National Library of New Zealand

After the unveiling, Te Aonui returned to England. His wife Madge Dennan died on 17 Feb 1932 and their three children were sent to live with relatives or to boarding school while Te Aonui lived at the Oddington Grange. He then moved back to New Zealand without his children. He met Rangitīaria Ratema (Guide Rangi) and they became married on 11 September 1938 at a ceremony held at Te Waiti Marae at Lake Rotoiti. The couple did not have children. Te Aonui died aged 51 in 1942 of cancer.  (Source: Diamond (1988), op cit, p.174). 

Image: [untitled figure] - The Old-Time Maori

Bella received letter sent by Penniman on 4 July 1936 for permission from herself & Te Aonui to publish Maggie's thesis

Source: "Guide to the papers of Makereti" Trove: https://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-838030949/findingaid

[untitled figure] - The Old-Time Maori

Victoria University of Wellington

Maggie's thesis was published in 1938 as "The old-time Māori"

The book was published by Maggie's friend, T. K. Penniman, Secretary of the Board of Anthropological Studies at Oxford

The Old-Time Maori / Makereti.

National Library of New Zealand

Image: Guide Rangi, Whakarewarewa, Rotorua, N.Z. 2896

Bella's nephew Te Aonui married Guide Rangi in 1938

His first wife Madge had died in England in 1932 & children lived with relatives. He died in 1942 of cancer aged 51.

Guide Rangi, Whakarewarewa, Rotorua, N.Z. 2896

Auckland Libraries

 17. BELLA'S HERITAGE 

Bella suffered a stroke in 1939 and passed away on 24 Feb 1950 after 11 years in Rotorua Hospital

Bella is buried in the family urupa alongside her second husband Aperahama who had passed away aged 60 years in 1934

PERSONAL ITEMS (Evening Post, 22 February 1934)

National Library of New Zealand

Mana as head guide

Heritage New Zealand Māori heritage advisor Tamoe Ngata: "Bella...never returned to guiding at Whakarewarewa before her death on 24 February 1950. Her guiding number was never re-issued, however, and she was always acknowledged as the head guide during that time - such was her mana."  

Source: Guide Bella's wharepuni gets heritage status, Rotorua Daily Post 24 May 2016:  https://www.nzherald.co.nz/rotorua-daily-post/news/guide-bellas-wharepuni-gets-heritage-status/W7UJEJD2FIME245BFZI6YMDLVM/

Songs composed by Bella 

As well as being the cultural group's choreographer, Bella was also a composer. One of group's waiata composed by Bella was 'Pakete whero'. 

According to Bubbles Mihinui: "There used to be a special song sung by the Whaka (Whakarewarewa) guides that was called ‘Pakete whero mau mai i a koe’ [The red kerchief that you wear]. Bella composed a poi to this song for the 1934 Waitangi Day celebrations. For a long time only the guides at Whaka could perform it, because ‘Pakete whero’ has got an offbeat. This is because Bella likened her poi to the hoof beats of galloping horses – she loved the races. So Bella’s poi became the recognised signature of the Whaka guides." (Source: Mihinui & Parekowhai, 1991, op cit, p.490)  

Bella is said to have composed this song in honour of a man from Ruatähuna that she was secretly having an affair with. The wearing of the red scarves by both of them signalled to each other their secret love (Source:  Huata, Ngämoni (2000). The Rhythm and Life of Poi. Auckland: HarperCollins Huata, pp.:75-76)   

For the lyrics and a list of records with this song, see: Pakete Whero: Guide Bella Papakura, 1905. New Zealand Folk Song: https://www.folksong.org.nz/pakete_whero/index.html  

One of the group's waiata composed by Bella was 'Pakete whero'

Three poi songs (Pakete whero, Taku poi, Taumanimaru) ; The flute across the lake.

National Library of New Zealand

Heritage New Zealand Māori heritage advisor Tamoe Ngata: "This song is still sung today for tourists who visit Whakarewarewa...As a salute to Bella and their guiding heritage, the red scarf is worn by Tuhourangi women when performing or representing Tuhourangi at formal occasions."   Source: Guide Bella's wharepuni gets heritage status, Rotorua Daily Post 24 May 2016:  https://www.nzherald.co.nz/rotorua-daily-post/news/guide-bellas-wharepuni-gets-heritage-status/W7UJEJD2FIME245BFZI6YMDLVM/  

Songs by Bella have been written down by composer Alfred Hill to preserve for posterity (1939)

REAL MAORI MUSIC (Evening Post, 16 February 1939)

National Library of New Zealand

Heritage New Zealand building

The wharepuni Te Awa i Manukau, which was built by Bella's second husband Aperahama Wiāri in 1925, was listed as a Wahi Tupuna with Heritage New Zealand in 2016.   Heritage advisor Tamoe Ngata:  "It was named after the Ngati Wahiao/Tuhourangi ancestor Te Awa i Manukau as a reminder of her inherent mana and prestige, which was passed down to Bella through her ancestors.  The whare stands as a reminder of Guide Bella and her contribution to the Whakarewarewa community."  Bella and Aperahama, who passed away aged 60 years in 1934,  are buried in the family cemetery directly behind Te Awa i Manukau.   

See photo: Guide Bella's wharepuni gets heritage status, Rotorua Daily Post 24 May 2016. https://www.nzherald.co.nz/rotorua-daily-post/news/guide-bellas-wharepuni-gets-heritage-status/W7UJEJD2FIME245BFZI6YMDLVM/ 

Image: Pacific Viewpoint - Guide Bubbles interview

Video interview (1979): Guide Bubbles (Dorothy Huhana Mihinui) reminiscences about Guides Rangi and Bella

Pacific Viewpoint - Guide Bubbles interview

NZ On Screen